The Buruji Madrasa in Sivas—a jewel of Seljuk architecture

The Buruji Madrasa: A Lace-Like Gateway to Seljuk Scholarship in Sivas

When you step out onto Kent Meydanı, the city square in Sivas, and look up, the portal of the Burujiye Madrasa literally stops you in your tracks: the muqarnas above the entrance hang like a continuous stone lace, with geometric stars and relief spirals covering every inch of the frame. This is not decoration—it is mathematics frozen in stone. The Burujiye Madrasa was built in 1271 during the reign of Seljuk Sultan Giyaseddin Keyhüsrev III, commissioned by Muzaffer Burujerdi—a scholar from the Persian city of Boruj near Hamadan who came to Sivas to teach physics, chemistry, and astronomy. Today, the madrasa serves as a center for religious and cultural education, where calligraphy, ebru, and the art of playing the ney are still taught, and the Quran is recited daily in the mausoleum. Among all the madrasas of Anatolia, this one is a model of symmetry and a quintessential example of Seljuk architecture.

History and Origin of the Burujiye Madrasa

The year is 1271. The Rum Seljuk Sultanate is going through difficult times: Mongol pressure is mounting, and central authority is weakening. But construction continues in Sivas. Muzaffar ibn Ibadullah al-Mufaddal al-Burujirdi—that is the full name of the patron, inscribed on the inscription band of the mausoleum—arrived from Boruj (Persian: Borujerd) near Hamadan in western Iran. He was a scholar familiar with the tradition of Persian madrasas, and he wanted to create a place in Sivas where the “positive sciences”—physics, chemistry, and astronomy—would be taught, what we would now call a faculty of natural sciences.

The madrasa was built in the year 670 AH (1271 CE) during the reign of Ghiyath al-Din Kaykhusrev III (1265–1284). Its location in the Eskikale district, on the town square, next to two other major madrasas—Çifte Minareli and Şifaiye—suggests that this area was the cultural center of medieval Sivas. The three madrasas stand a few hundred meters apart: it is clear that the entire street functioned as a sort of academic town.

The architect’s name has not been preserved. However, the building clearly follows the tradition of Central Asian Turkic madrasas: four iwans surrounding an open courtyard, a symmetrical plan close to a square. This is no coincidence: the Seljuks came from Central Asia and brought with them this layout, which later spread throughout the Muslim world.

After the madrasa system was abolished in the 1920s, the building stood empty and began to fall into ruin—the mezzanine was completely lost. From 1956 to 1968, a large-scale restoration was carried out: first under the supervision of the Ministry of Education, then under the Ministry of Culture, which took the madrasa under its care in 1957. The mezzanine was restored. In 2005, additional repair work was carried out: the floors were reinforced, the drainage system was repaired, the domes were covered with lead, and the stone pavement was restored. Today, the building belongs to the General Directorate of Waqfs and was transferred to the Sivas Muftiate in 2015. The madrasa has been submitted to UNESCO for consideration as a World Heritage site—the application was included on the tentative list on April 15, 2014.

Architecture and What to See

Architectural historians describe the Buruji Madrasa as “one of the finest examples of Seljuk architecture in Anatolia, featuring the most harmonious and complete architectural elements and ornamentation.” This is no mere rhetoric: the building truly stands out among the madrasas of Sivas for the rigor of its proportions and the meticulousness of its finishes.

Main Portal and Mukarnas

The main entrance is on the west side, facing the street. The portal iwan is decorated with muqarnas that resemble intricate lace: geometric figures inscribed within one another with mathematical precision. The iwan measures 6.50 by 7.80 meters. On either side of the gate are two windows with muqarnas niches and two corner faceted pylons. The portal iwan is surrounded on all sides by inscriptions.

Open courtyard and arcades

Beyond the portal lies an open courtyard with arcades approximately 1.10 meters wide on two sides. The pointed arches of the galleries rest on round columns 270 cm high and about 45 cm in diameter. Some of the capitals are Corinthian, while others bear Byzantine monograms: all of these are “spolia,” that is, stones salvaged from earlier structures. It is a mystery in stone—fragments of several eras within a single arcade.

Eight Study Cells

Eight khujras—living and study cells for students—are arranged around the courtyard. Each opens onto the courtyard through a door but has no windows. The cells behind the narrow arcade are covered by cylindrical vaults. In the cells on either side of the main portal, staircases lead up to the roof, accessing mezzanine rooms with windows.

The mausoleum and tiles

To the left of the main portal is the mausoleum of the patron and his children. Originally, all the walls of the mausoleum were covered with rich hexagonal tiles in blue and black; today, some of the tiles have survived. Along the upper edge of the mausoleum’s walls runs an inscription band bearing the founder’s full name—beneath rows of tiled muqarnas. The Quran is recited here daily, and the sound is broadcast throughout the building via a sound system: visitors can hear the recitation without entering the mausoleum.

Library and Cultural Programs

The waqf (founding document) indicates that the madrasa originally had a library. Today, the building houses two reading rooms, workshops for calligraphy, ebru (marbling), tajwid (melodic recitation of the Quran), Arabic and Turkish language classes, as well as courses on tafsir, hadith, and the ney. Visitors are offered free tea—a kind tradition of Anatolian hospitality.

Interesting Facts and Legends

  • The walls of the Buruji Madrasa are between 115 and 150 centimeters thick, depending on their location: this is not merely a construction technique, but a direct legacy of the tradition of Central Asian madrasas, where thick walls provided protection from the summer heat and winter cold.
  • Some of the column capitals in the courtyard arcades are Corinthian, clearly brought from older ruins. Others bear Byzantine monograms. Thus, three architectural eras coexist within a single madrasa: Antiquity, Byzantium, and Seljuk Islam.
  • In the patron’s mausoleum, Quran reciters rotate daily—a new religious official each day. The sound is broadcast throughout the building via speakers, and visitors to the madrasa can hear the recitation wherever they are. For non-Muslim tourists, this is an unusual and memorable experience.
  • The madrasa has been on UNESCO’s tentative list since 2014—along with Çifte Minareli and Şifaiye as part of the “cultural quarter” complex of Sivas. If the nomination is successful, the entire historic city center will receive protected status.
  • Among the madrasas of Anatolia, Burujiye stands out for the most precise symmetry of its layout. Experts explain this by the fact that the patron—a natural scientist from Iran—deliberately reproduced the ideal plan of a Central Asian madrasa with four iwans, rather than adapting it to local conditions.

How to get there

The Burujiye Madrasa is located on Kent Meydanı Square in the Eskikale neighborhood of Sivas’s central district. The nearest airport is Sivas Nuri Demirağ (VAS), which receives flights from Istanbul (IST and SAW) and Ankara. The flight time from Istanbul is about 1 hour and 20 minutes. From the airport to the center of Sivas, take a taxi or city bus; the trip takes about 15–20 minutes.

From Ankara, you can travel by train: Ankara Gar Station to Sivas, with a travel time of about 5–6 hours on a regular TCDD train. Bus companies (Metro, Kamil Koç, and others) operate daily routes from Ankara and Istanbul to Sivas. In Sivas itself, all three historic madrasas—Burujiye, Çifte Minareli, and Şifaiye—are located on the same square, Kent Meydanı, within walking distance of each other: you can visit all three in a single day.

Tips for travelers

The Buruciye Madrasa is open daily, and admission is free. Staff will offer you tea—don’t refuse: it’s part of the tradition of hospitality. Inside, please remain quiet, especially during Quran recitations in the mausoleum.

The best time to photograph the facade is in the morning, when the sun shines directly into the portal and the muqarnas cast deep shadows. The evening lighting is warm but loses the sense of depth. Plan to spend at least 45–60 minutes at the Burujiye Madrasa, and if you want to see all three madrasas in the neighborhood, allow half a day. In Sivas itself, there are several good hotels in the center; the city is small and convenient for independent travel.

Combine your visit with the Çifte Minareli Medrese (the Two-Minaret Medrese—the city’s most photogenic site) and the Şifaiye Medresesi (a 13th-century hospital medrese)—all three are within a hundred meters of each other. The 12th-century Ulu Camii Grand Mosque is also located just two blocks away. For lovers of Seljuk architecture, Sivas is a must-see stop on the route between Ankara and Erzurum. Visit in spring (April–May) or early fall (September–October): summers here are hot and dry, and winters are harsh. It is during the mild off-season that the portal of the Buruji Madrasa is best appreciated—each muqarnas pattern, bathed in the soft Anatolian light, looks like a separate masterpiece of applied art.

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Frequently asked questions — The Buruji Madrasa in Sivas—a jewel of Seljuk architecture Answers to frequently asked questions about The Buruji Madrasa in Sivas—a jewel of Seljuk architecture. Information about the service's operation, capabilities, and use.
The Buruji Madrasa is a medieval Islamic school built in 1271 in Sivas during the era of the Seljuk Sultanate of Rûm. The building’s main feature is its exceptionally intricate muqarnas portal: geometric stars, relief spirals, and multi-tiered stalactite vaults cover every inch of the entrance frame. Architectural historians consider it one of the finest examples of Seljuk architecture in Anatolia due to the strict symmetry of its layout and the meticulousness of its finish.
The madrasa was commissioned by Muzaffar ibn Ibadullah al-Borujirdi, a scholar from the Persian city of Borujerd near Hamadan. He came to Sivas with the intention of establishing a place where the “positive sciences”—physics, chemistry, and astronomy—would be taught. In effect, it was a prototype of a natural sciences faculty by 13th-century standards. The founder’s full name is inscribed on the frieze of the mausoleum inside the madrasa.
Mukarnas are a system of three-dimensional prismatic cells that hang over the entrance like stone lace. This is not merely decoration: each element is constructed according to the mathematical laws of geometry. At the Burujiye Madrasa, the muqarnas of the main portal are considered the most intricate and best-preserved among all Anatolian Seljuk madrasas. This is precisely why the portal has become the building’s symbol and one of the main attractions for photographers and architectural researchers.
The arcades of the inner courtyard feature columns whose capitals are clearly taken from earlier structures—so-called spolia. Some of the capitals are Corinthian (ancient style), while others bear Byzantine monograms. Thus, three architectural eras coexist within a single building: Antiquity, Byzantium, and Seljuk Islam. This makes the madrasa a unique testament to cultural stratification—a kind of detective story carved in stone.
Not yet, but the Buruciye Medrese has been included on UNESCO’s Tentative List since April 15, 2014—along with the neighboring Çifte Minareli Medrese and Şifaiye Medrese as a single “cultural quarter” of Sivas. If the nomination is approved, the entire historic city center will receive international protection status.
The Buruji Madrasa is a vibrant cultural institution, not merely a museum. Today, it hosts workshops in calligraphy, ebru (marbling), tajwid, Arabic, and Turkish, as well as courses on tafsir and hadith. In the founder’s mausoleum, Quran reciters take turns daily—their voices are broadcast throughout the building via a sound system. The madrasa belongs to the General Directorate of Waqfs and has been under the administration of the Sivas Muftiate since 2015.
The Burudji Madrasa was built according to the classical Central Asian layout: four iwans surrounding an open courtyard, with a symmetrical plan that is nearly square. The patron—a natural scientist from Iran—deliberately replicated the ideal layout of an Iranian madrasa without adapting it to local conditions. This explains the flawless symmetry, which experts consider exceptional among Anatolian madrasas of that period. The walls are 115–150 centimeters thick, which kept the building cool in summer and warm in winter.
The mausoleum is located to the left of the main portal and serves as the burial place for the madrasa’s patron and his children. Originally, all the walls were covered with hexagonal blue and black tiles; some of these tiles have survived to this day. A band of inscriptions bearing the founder’s name runs along the top edge of the walls. You may enter the mausoleum, but out of respect for religious practices, please remain silent: the Quran is recited here daily.
Yes, according to the waqf—the madrasa’s founding document—the library has existed since its inception. Today, the building houses two reading rooms that continue this tradition. In addition, eight khujras—study and living quarters for students—have been preserved, arranged around the inner courtyard. They are covered by cylindrical vaults and open onto the courtyard through doorways.
After the madrasah system was abolished in the 1920s, the building stood empty and began to fall into disrepair—the mezzanine was completely lost. From 1956 to 1968, a large-scale restoration took place under the supervision of the Ministry of Education and later the Ministry of Culture: the mezzanine was rebuilt. In 2005, additional work was carried out—the floors were reinforced, the drainage system was repaired, the domes were covered with lead, and the stone pavement was restored. The building is now in good condition.
The Buruji Madrasa is open daily, and admission is completely free. No advance reservation is required. Visitors are welcome to come on their own during the facility’s opening hours. As is customary, staff members offer guests tea—a tradition of Anatolian hospitality that is generally expected to be accepted.
All three madrasas stand on Kent Meydanı Square, just a few hundred meters apart, forming the historic “academic quarter” of medieval Sivas. Çifte Minareli (Two-Minaret) is considered the most photogenic thanks to the two tall minarets on its façade. Şifaiye Medresesi is a 13th-century madrasa-hospital founded by the sultan himself. Burujiye, meanwhile, stands out for its most intricate portal and the strictest symmetry of its layout. Together, they provide a complete picture of the heyday of Seljuk architecture in Central Anatolia.
User manual — The Buruji Madrasa in Sivas—a jewel of Seljuk architecture The Buruji Madrasa in Sivas—a jewel of Seljuk architecture User Guide with a description of the main functions, features, and principles of use.
The best time to visit is April–May or September–October. In spring and early fall, the soft light particularly highlights the relief of the muqarnas on the portal. Sivas is hot and dry in the summer, and winters are harsh, which can make it difficult to explore the square. If your goal is to photograph the facade, plan to arrive in the morning: the morning sun shines directly into the portal and creates deep shadows in the niches.
The nearest airport is Sivas Nuri Demirağ (VAS), which serves flights from Istanbul (IST, SAW) and Ankara; the flight from Istanbul takes about 1 hour and 20 minutes. From Ankara, you can reach Sivas by TCDD train from Ankara Gar station—the journey takes 5–6 hours. Bus companies such as Metro, Kamil Koç, and others operate daily routes from Ankara and Istanbul. From the airport or bus station to the center of Sivas, take a taxi or city bus; the trip takes about 15–20 minutes.
The Buruji Medrese is located right on Kent Meydanı Square in the Eskikale district—the historic center of Sivas. The building is easy to find even without a GPS: the entrance is clearly visible from the square. Nearby are the Çifte Minareli Medrese and the Şifaiye Medresesi—all three sites are within walking distance. Parking is available on the square and adjacent streets, but it’s easier to get around on foot in the city center.
Don’t rush inside right away—stop at the portal and take a moment to examine the mukarnas iwan from the outside. The iwan measures 6.50 × 7.80 meters; on either side are two windows with niches and faceted corner pylons. Take note of the inscribed bands around the portal and the geometric stars in the ornamentation. It is here that the mathematical precision of Seljuk decor is most clearly visible. Take photos of the façade before entering—the view inside is quite different.
Upon entering through the portal, you will find yourself in an open courtyard flanked by arcades on both sides. Take a closer look at the columns: some of the capitals are Corinthian, while others bear Byzantine monograms—these are spolia from earlier structures. Surrounding the courtyard are eight khujras (study cells) with cylindrical vaults. In the cells on either side of the portal, there are staircases leading to the roof. Take your time: the details of the arcades deserve a close look.
The tomb of the patron and his children is located to the left of the main portal. Step inside and examine the preserved blue and black hexagonal tiles and the inscription band bearing the founder’s name. Please note: the daily recitation of the Quran held here is broadcast throughout the entire building via a sound system. This auditory backdrop creates the madrasa’s unique atmosphere, which is best experienced in silence.
The madrasa staff will offer you free tea—don’t refuse; it’s a tradition of Anatolian hospitality. If you’re interested, ask the staff for the schedule of open workshops: classes in calligraphy, ebru (marbling), and tajwid are held here. Sometimes visitors can watch the process or even try it themselves. Admission to the entire building is free.
After the Buruji Medrese, head to the Çifte Minareli Medrese—Sivas’s most photogenic building, featuring two tall minarets on its façade. Next, visit the Şifaiye Medrese, a 13th-century medrese-hospital. Two blocks away is the 12th-century Ulu Camii Grand Mosque. It will take half a day to explore the entire neighborhood, including breaks. Plan at least 45–60 minutes for the Buruji Medrese itself and the same amount of time for the two neighboring sites.